Q. I have magic lilies that have not bloomed for two or three years. The foliage comes up in the spring, but there are no blooms in the summer. Do I need to move the bulbs? If so, when?
– Marian Fouts, Walkerton, Ind.
A. When bulbs (including daffodils) get crowded, they will cease flowering.
If you have a thick mass of magic lilies (Lycoris &emdash; also called surprise lilies, naked ladies and resurrection lilies), you’ll need to lift them with a garden fork, remove the bulblets from the mother bulb, and replant them. The bulblets will produce only foliage for a few years while they gather the energy to flower. Tackle this project when the foliage is beginning to die down.
If the plants aren’t crowded, they may be too shaded. Magic lilies tolerate some, but not full shade. In dense shade, their foliage can’t produce enough stored food for flowering. You may need to move yours to a sunnier location.
Finally, bulbs are heavy feeders. Fertilize them each year before and after foliage production with a complete bulb fertilizer. Bonemeal, often believed to be an adequate fertilizer, is too low in nitrogen and lacks potassium.
Q. About four years ago, we planted some fast-growing trees that look like willows. My concern is that the bark seems to be breaking away from the tree trunk. We lost four of these trees just last year. The bark had done the same thing on those trees, and then the trees just died. I am forwarding some pictures to you.
– Judy Crawford, Buffalo, IN
A. The picture you sent is dramatic! When the tree was young and thin-barked, it probably developed a frost crack, also known as winter sunscald. Maples, tulip trees, ash and crabapples are damaged this way in winter when the bark surfaces are warmed by a bright winter sun and then chilled rapidly when temperatures drop sharply at night. This rapid temperature change kills bark tissue and cambium, and the dead bark falls away the next spring to expose the underlying heartwood. This type of injury characteristically occurs on the south and west sides of the trunk.
You can prevent winter sunscald by wrapping the trunks of newly transplanted trees with burlap, sissalkraft paper or other tree wrapping materials. The wrap should be kept in place only in the winter. Years ago, arborists recommended leaving tree wrap in place for two years, but research has shown the wrap should be removed in spring.
Your trees are severely damaged, and there’s little you can do to save them. Water and fertilize them regularly to keep the tree actively growing. This may help the tree form callous tissue over the wound, but you’ll probably need to start over. Members of the willow or poplar family are susceptible to a number of insects and diseases that enter through points of injury. By now, your trees are probably suffering from more than just frost cracks. I hope your next planting is more successful!
Q. I have a red bud tree I’d like to propagate. I have collected some seedpods. Most of the seeds are black, a few green. Now what? Do they need cold weather? Can I plant them in pots this winter for a head start next spring? What’s my next step?
– O. Stureman
A. The easiest way to propagate redbuds from seed is to plant the seed outdoors in the fall. Winter will take care of the necessary chilling period for seed germination.
Q. You stated in one of your columns that you would be interested in hearing from people who have used sprinklers with motion detectors. I have had a “Scarecrow” for a couple of years, and it is just great. Unfortunately it’s worn out, but I have two new ones ordered. I’ve tried lots of things to keep my dogs and cats (all of which I love dearly) out of my garden and flowers, but the Scarecrow is the only thing I’ve ever found that works.
– Debi Rowe