Purdue News
Purdue News
Judy Loven, Indiana director of the U.S. Department of Agriculture's Wildlife Control Program stationed at Purdue University, says that although the typical harpoon traps found in most hardware stores are reasonably easy to use, there are some tips that can make the mole hunting easier.
The first thing to do is to make sure you have a well-functioning trap, she says.
"If you are using older traps, clean them with a wire brush or steel wool to make sure that they are working correctly. Do not lubricate them with WD-40 or motor oil, because these have an odor that the mole will avoid," Loven says. "If you have to have some sort of lubrication, use mineral oil, and try to use just the minimum amount you need."
Next, locate the main paths of the mole. Some surface runways may have been used once and abandoned, while others are used by the mole daily.
"You can locate surface main runways by flattening down a small section of the runway,," Loven says . "The runs that are repaired by the mole within a day or two are the main runways."
To position the trap, flatten the tunnel slightly (about 1/2 inch) and then place the trap on the tunnel until the trigger pan is resting on the ground with the stakes of the trap on either side of the runway.
"You need to determine how deep the runway is. This can be done by poking your finger or a stick into the runway and measuring the depth," Loven says. The harpoons on the trap are only about four inches long, she explains, so if the harpoons don't reach the bottom of the tunnel, a small amount of dirt can be dug out from under the trap's trigger pan so that the spikes hit the bottom of the runway.
"When I put the trap into the ground, I don't have it already set," Loven says "Before I set it I pump the harpoon up and down a few times to make sure it doesn't hit a stone or root inside the tunnel and misfire.
Moles are sometimes able to evade traps even if they are properly set. "When that happens we have to head 'em off at the pass," Loven says. "What I do is to make a little underground fence out of Popsicle sticks or twigs. I space them about one inch apart, and I extend the fence eight or ten inches out from either side of the trap. This will drive him back toward the trap."
Often more than one trap will be needed to capture a mole. Loven suggest using three to five traps per acre. "You should check the trap twice a day for results. If no mole is captured after four or five days, relocate the trap," she says.
To protect children and pets, Loven suggests placing a bucket over the trap.
If the harpoon trap doesn't work, the experts say to stay away from home remedies or gimmicks such as ultrasonic transmitters, whirly-gig daisies, grain-based poisons, fumigants (especially mothballs), or drowning. All of these are ineffective, and some can be dangerous to other wildlife, pets or children.
"If the harpoon trap doesn't work, homeowners may want to consider other types of traps such as the scissors trap or the choker trap," Loven says. "These traps usually have to be mail-ordered."
Scissor traps can be ordered from the Woodstream Corp., 69 N. Locust, Lititz, Pa. 17543-0327. Telephone, (717) 626-2125.
Choker traps can be ordered from the Nash Mole Trap Co., 5716 E. S Avenue, Vicksburg, Mich. 49097-9990. Telephone, (616) 323-2980.
For those who would rather not kill moles in their yard, the small animals can be safely captured and relocated to a woody or weedy area, Loven says.
"Locate a main runway, then dig a hole large enough to accept a two- to three-pound coffee can," Loven says. "The top rim of the coffee can should be level with the bottom of the mole run."
The coffee can then forms a pit that the mole will fall into. Cover the hole with a board, and check the trap each day to see if a mole has been caught.
"The mole can then be released in an area where it can continue its beneficial role in the wild," Loven says.
Source: Judy Loven, (765) 494-6229
Writer: Steve Tally, (765) 494-9809; e-mail, tally@ecn.purdue.edu
Purdue News Service: (765) 494-2096; e-mail, purduenews@purdue.edu
